Anticipating quince

Quince jam is truly the queen of them all. I was hit hard with hopeless culinary nostalgia when I came across cheap quinces at a farmers’ market a couple of years ago and remembered they were belles dames of the home kitchen decades earlier. I bought six although I had no idea what to do with them. Turns out I didn’t need to do much at all. The fruit transformed into the most extraordinary fragrant, jewel-colored jam, it was the quince and sugar, not me, that did all the work — quince is naturally high in pectin.

I’m eying the few quince on my and my neighbor’s trees that survived the weird spring chilliness. Let’s hope they keep healthy until they’re ready to pick, a couple of months from now.

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